[Log] Workshop 1: Working with Texture Stamps

I have used "Log" entries to detail my experience of painting miniatures to completion. This [Log] Workshop entry is different from previous ones as it collects my thoughts on practicing and experimenting with techniques and materials. The Workshop posts differ from This and future [Log] Workshop posts provide more first hand experience, for better or worse, of me trying out things differing from Workshop posts that provide easy reference and more "polished" instructions to obtain a desired result. In other words, a [ Log] Workshop entry will usually be posted before the corresponding [Workshop] entry, similar to [Log] entry posted before an [Archives] entry.

In this first [Log] Workshop entry, I go over my experience on the materials I have used with Texture Stamps.

Instructional Videos

All of the texture stamps I am using are made from Happy Seppuku. Happy Seppuku posted several instructional videos that have helped me learn to use texture stamps. The first two videos are based on using their older polyurethane stamps with bases. They are still useful instructional videos with the current rubber stamps. The third video demonstrates the use of rubber stamps for buildings.

Base Stamping Part 1

This video goes over the basic application of the texture stamps to bases.

Base Stamping Part 2

This continues from the first video, but provides some advance use of the texture stamps with accents.

Scenery

The flexibility of the rubber stamps allows it to be used on non-flat surfaces like the corner of a building. This is in contrast with the older polyurethane stamps that were rigid.

Stamping Hands On Experience

After purchasing many of the Happy Seppuku rubber stamps, I decided to just make a lot of bases with different textures for practice. The videos above actually explained what works and do not work. For me, however, sometimes just getting my hands dirty and learning from my mistakes is the best way to go about learning to use the stamps. Some of the mistakes I made while working with the stamps include: 1) not using enough putty; 2) not using a lubricant; and 3) when to stamp the hardening putty

Amount of Putty

Before stamping, I should take into consideration how "deep" the stamp is to determine how much putty I need to use. A fairly flat Tile texture requires a small amount of putty but a rocky Ground Creekbed texture requires a large amount of putty. Not using enough putty can lead to loss of detail.

3 Texture Base Samples using the Jungle Vine Stamp from Happy Seppuku. The bottom sample I did not used enough putty to get all the different jungle vine texture. The middle sample I did not use a lubricant. In the top sample, I used lubricant and enough putty to get all the different texture from the stamp.

Lubricant

To get accurate stamping a lubricant is needed. Without lubricant, the putty have a tendency to stick to the stamp instead of staying on the base. Not only does it make it more difficult to clean the stamps afterwards, but the final texture can look less smooth and have tears or rips (which might be a desired result sometimes).

Stamping with Different Types of Putty

I tried three different types of putty with the texture stamps: Apoxie Sculpt (Gray color), Milliput (Yellowish color), and Green Stuff. Each one have slightly different properties. I found Apoxie Sculpt, the cheaper option out of the three, produce results on par with the more expensive putties. Especially for simple textures, I don't notice a difference (see the 1/4" Square Tile image below). On highly detailed textures the Apoxie Sculpt putty have a softer look (see the Forest Floor image below). I also noticed Apoxie Sculpt and Milliput are more malleable. In other words, when stamping these material, they are more prone to shape differently from the intended result as compare to Green Stuff. Allowing the Apoxie Sculpt and Milliput to harden more before stamping appears to help; however, if I waited too long, I may not be able to get the desired detail from the stamp. With Milliput you can extend the work time by adding some water.

Tile 1/4" Square Texture with Apoxie Sculpt (Gray), Milliput (Yellow), and Green Stuff (Green).

From my experience with Green Stuff putty, it is harder than the other two putties after mixing; however, it can take details much better from the pressing hard on the stamp without causing tears or shreds in the putty. After trying all three, I decided to use Apoxie Sculpt for majority of my base stamping purposes. I plan to use Green Stuff putty for when I need a very crisp texture.

Forest Floor Texture with Apoxie Sculpt (Gray), Milliput (Yellow), and Green Stuff (Green)

I have already test stamped 40+ different textures. With some of the textures, especially the roof shingle textures, I did not like the results. I will likely stamp them again  Now, I am painting these texture samples as future references for basing and texturing terrain and board.

Next Blog Entry: [Log] Workshop 2 - Working with Casting Molds